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Road Trip

If you like H.G. Wells’ books, then you’ve probably read The Time Machine. My vehicle is like that sometimes.

I’ve written about going back in time during my jaunts while covering stories for The Leader-Vindicator. So far, my best experience has been discovering St. Stephen’s church in Bradys Bend.

Early last week, I took another time-traveling trip and ended up in State College. I went there on business and accidentally fell through a cosmic worm hole.

Many of us attended Penn State and that I thought an update was in order for those who haven’t been back in a couple of decades.

State College has lost a lot of its quaint charm, not through fires and floods but through the march of progress.

Before Interstate 80 was completed in this part of the state, you had to take Route 322 if you wanted to reach Penn State. That was a few years before my college career, but I’ve heard stories about those journeys.

I think it took three hours to get there. Last week, I made the same trip in a little less than two. In case you’re wondering, I obeyed the speed limit. I cheated a little by exiting I-80 at Clearfield, traveling on 322 for a few miles to the Port Matilda area before picking up I-99 over the ridge.

If you remember that long, slow slog through Port Matilda and over Skytop, that’s a thing of the past. There’s a marvelous six-lane highway bypassing that segment of the route. You’re very nearly driving through the clouds. It’s exhilarating, and a bit terrifying.

The new highway is a monument to modern engineering, but I miss the old, and notorious, Skytop adult bookstore. In case you’re wondering, I was never a customer and never even pulled into its parking lot to turn around.

That bookstore was the source of much tut-tutting over the years. I wonder what people talk about now.

The new highway brings you swooping onto North Atherton Street, the outskirts of town. If you remember that area as a wild and lonely wasteland dotted with scruffy marginal businesses and trailer courts, you might be disappointed.

It is now a miser’s nightmare. It is also a foodie’s paradise.

Nearly any national retailer can be found along this stretch of road. Best Buy, Target, Wal Mart, Michael’s, Trader Joe’s and Wegman’s are just a few of the stores you’ll find there.

It’s glittering, dazzling and a bit overwhelming.

Most of that land once belonged to a shady character known as Smokey Temple. Smokey got his nickname because of the number of unfortunate fires that destroyed some of his less-successful business buildings.

It was home to a memorably seedy strip shopping center and one of the last drive-in theaters in Center County. On the other side of the street, there was an abandoned modular home dealership and a stretch of cracked pavement, once the parking lot of a bowling alley and meat market that burned mysteriously in the late ‘70s.

I had to pick my way carefully along heavily traveled suburban side streets. Townhouses and tony housing developments sit in the middle of former cornfields that vanished sometime in the past 15 years.

Returning to North Atherton Street, I saw the impressive pedestrian walkway linking the Penn State Campus with what used to be the Blue Golf Course. I’m sure it has reduced the number of pedestrian casualties. College students are not always the brightest bulbs in the lamp.

On the other hand, I kind of miss the scruffy Post House Tavern. In its heyday, it was the place to go for seafood. Still, I always felt sorry for the miserable lobsters lurking in their murky tank near the front entrance.
I didn’t venture into the middle of town on this trip. If you remember State College as being a quaint college town, that’s pretty much a thing of the past, too.

The New College Diner, also known as the Penn State Diner, also known as the State College Diner, is still doing business as simply The Diner. It has undergone a number of well-meaning facelifts over the years, but it lacks character. It still serves those infernal sticky buns, though.

Everything seems to be so new, glittering and faintly garish. I lived in State College for 23 years and nothing feels real about the town anymore. It is no longer “home.”

After a mind-numbing four hours, I was relieved to drive back to New Bethlehem.
And what did I see as I approached the bridge? Members of the Southern Clarion County Regional Police Department directing traffic around a familiar bucket truck. Bill Reddinger was putting up the new LED Christmas lights.
That’s the right kind of glitter for a place you call “home.”